5 mins
MOST COMMON waxing issues UNPACKED
As we start heading into spring, salons will no doubt see bookings for hair removal treatments increase.We asked some experts for advice on how to deal with potential waxing problems
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Ingrown hairs
Generally waxing will result in minimal ingrown hairs, especially compared to shaving.
“Making sure that you always apply your strip wax in the direction of hair growth and remove against the direction will certainly help, but also recommending that the client exfoliates and moisturises their skin regularly will help to get rid of the dead skin cells and stop the hair from becoming trapped,” recommends Tracey Smith, director and founder of Ashmira Botanica.
“A good serum for ingrown hairs will help to get rid of the problem if it is too late and may be able to be applied prior to waxing to help prevent the problem occurring.”
“TO GET ALL THE WAX
on the
FIRST GO,
always
ENSURE THE SKIN IS HELD TAUT
during application
AND REMOVAL,
especially on areas with folds such as the
UPPER THIGHS, BIKINI LINE AND
UNDERARMS.
”
Skin lifting
This is when skin has been taken off during the waxing treatment and can leave your clients looking like they have burns – but what causes it?
“Clients may be using skincare products containing AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) or retinol or taking Roaccutane, all designed to exfoliate the skin. Wax also exfoliates and the two together can be too much for the skin; the wax has no dead skin cells to adhere to and ends up taking new skin cells instead,” reveals Smith.
“Lifting can also occur if the wax used is too hot or too cold, if the wax is too sticky or applied too thickly. To prevent the problem, make sure that your removal is parallel to the skin, don’t pull the wax off upwards as this can also cause lifting. Always cleanse the skin properly first, try to use a peel-able wax on sensitive areas rather than strip wax and make sure the skin is dried properly, then apply either powder or oil before your wax.
“Afterwards, use a good soothing cream created for the area you are working on and recommend your client buys a retail version to carry on using at home to keep the skin free from bacteria and soothed and calmed.”
Wax where you don’t want it
Wax can be hard to control at times, but don’t worry if you get wax where it shouldn’t go – you can easily remove it.
“Accidental drips and dribbles on the body can be banished with a splash of oil,” shares Andy Rouillard, owner of Axiom Bodywork. “Apply generously, then either wipe with a clean paper strip, or twist the hair between your fingers to loosen the wax. Repeat until all stickiness has disappeared.”
If the wax is on a more delicate area, like the eyebrows, Kaeso educator Abbie McCann recommends, after applying oil, “brushing through the eyebrow gently with a brow brush and repeating this until the wax has been removed.
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“If you still have a bit of excess wax that can’t be removed, then placing a little bit of talc onto the eyebrow will help remove the last bit.”
Wax left on the skin when the paper is removed
“This usually happens because the wax has gone cold – either the client’s skin is too cool, or the wax has been applied too thickly. To solve the problem, apply strip wax in thin, single layers to avoid build-up and work in smaller sections if this keeps happening,” says Rouillard.
“If the problem is due to dry skin, massage a few drops of oil into the area before applying your wax to act as a lipid barrier.”
To get all the wax on the first go, always ensure the skin is held taut during application and removal, especially on areas with folds such as the upper thighs, bikini line and underarms.
“Don’t be afraid to ask your client to help with stretching where necessary,” advises Rouillard. “Also, don’t ‘dab’ to remove waxy residue as this is uncomfortable for clients. Lay a fresh paper strip over the top at a slightly different angle, rub briskly and remove in a single swift motion. As a last resort, use oil to dissolve any sticky bits, re-cleanse and start again.”
“ACCIDENTAL DRIPS and DRIBBLES ON THE BODY can be banished with a SPLASH OF OIL. APPLY GENEROUSLY, then either WIPE with a CLEAN PAPER STRIP, or TWIST THE HAIR between your fingers TO LOOSEN THE WAX.”
When wax won’t set
For maximum hair removal, you need to ensure your wax has been set correctly.
“If your hot wax is taking too long to set on warmer parts of the body or in humid weather, simply dampen a cotton pad with cold water and wipe over any gummy patches to cool and harden it instantly,” advises Rouillard.
McCann’s top tip for hot wax which isn’t setting is to “place talc on top of the wax and rubbing with your hand; this will help the wax to cool down and set”.
Hair length matters
There’s a sweet spot for waxing when it comes to hair length – hair that’s too short struggles to be picked up by the wax, while hair that’s too long faces its own issues.
“Clients should wait at least three weeks after shaving or using hair removal creams, and four weeks after their last wax, to get best results,” says Rouillard.
“To remove multiple stubborn hairs, use firm pressure, apply a layer of peel-able wax against the direction of hair growth and allow to dry. Stretching the skin taut, lift and remove wax with the direction of growth in several slow, tiny wiggles, re-bracing the skin at every step of the way to stop shorter hairs popping out of the wax.” As for long hairs, don’t be afraid to reach for the scissors. “Often the hairs haven’t been treated for many months, so if that’s the case, ensure you are trimming down any long hair to around a quarter of an inch because long unruly hair can cause problems when waxing from extra skin trauma and bruising to unnecessary pain,” advises Lisa Stone, Salon System educator.
Source: https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/site/ newsdetails/4-common-waxing-problems-and-how-toovercome-them