Spring beckons

According to a survey by the Orlando Health Cancer Institute, 32% of American adults under 35 believe a golden tan makes people look healthier, despite warnings about skin cancer and the sun’s impact on early ageing.

The research was led by Dr Rajesh Nair, an oncology surgeon at the Orlando Health Cancer Institute. “As for sunscreens, the protective benefits far outweigh any known risks, but if you’re concerned about chemicals or ingredients in a sunscreen, mineral sunscreens like zinc oxide that offer a physical barrier to the sun are proven to be safe,” he said in a statement.

Released in April, the Environmental Working Group’s (EWG) 2024 Guide to Sunscreens analysed 1,700 chemical and mineral sunscreens and found that only a quarter met their standards for safety. The EWG is an independent nonprofit organisation largely funded by individual donations and grants from charitable foundations.

The EWG report provides a database of products by brand and type (mainly products available in the US), while ranking them in terms of recreational sunscreens, daily sun protection factor (SPF) and the safest sunscreens for young children and babies. Many of the safest choices considered by the report are mineral-based instead of chemicalbased sunscreens.

The report also offers an expanded list of EWG-verified products. To be in this category, sunscreen labels must not use marketing claims banned by the FDA, such as “sunblock,” “sweatproof” or “waterproof” and cannot be in an aerosol or powder form due to the risk of inhalation. The product must also have an SPF between 15 and 50 and must agree to provide results on UVA performance from an independent laboratory.

Mineral sunscreens work by physically deflecting and blocking the sun’s rays, as opposed to sunscreens with chemicals that absorb UV rays and release heat as they break down.

“Unfortunately, we’re seeing skin cancer more and more in patients of a young age. And because it’s something that’s often not on their radar, it tends to be diagnosed in more advanced stages,” Dr Nair said. “We don’t want to discourage people from being outside and being active because there are so many health benefits to that, but it’s also important to know that sun protection can be lifesaving, and the only effective way of protecting yourself is limiting the effects of UV radiation on the skin.”

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has been working on updating sunscreen standards for decades. In 2021, the FDA proposed an update of sunscreen safety standards that would accelerate sunscreen safety by improving protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) rays; by mandating more transparent labels, so that it would be easier to see ingredients; and by limiting sunscreen to below 60 SPF, a level experts say provides no additional sun protection and offers false hope to consumers.

In 2019, oxybenzone was an ingredient in 60% of all sunscreen products tested by EWG, dropping to 30% in 2022. By 2023 and again in 2024, the chemical was used in only 6% of tested products, which included sunscreens and daily moisturisers and lip balms with sunscreen protection.

With Spring around the corner and summer holidays approaching, consumers are more aware than ever of the risks associated with not properly protecting their skin. Consumers are looking for light, fluid formulations that are easy to spread on the skin and leave no white residue.

Start recommending some lightweight options as Autumn draws to a close and get your clients ready for the warmer weather heading our way from September.