Treating the darker Fitzpatrick Skin Types

Somatologist and salon owner, Mpho Nyelele of Gifted MO in Johannesburg, provides expert advice on treating black clients’ top skincare concerns

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“ People TEND TO FORGET about the SIDE-EFFECTS OF most of the MEDICATIONS that they ARE TAKING. These may HAVE AN ADVERSE EFFECT on the skin and RESULT IN HYPERPIGMENTATION. Such medications include certain antibiotics. ”

Into what Fitzpatrick Skin Type do most of your clients fall?

My current spectrum is skin type 2 and 3 and this comprises about 75% of my clientele. Then I have about 25% who are photo type 5 and 6, and this is made up of Indian and black clients.

What are the most common skin issues you see with your black clients?

Hyperpigmentation and acne.

Typically, how would you treat each of these specific issues?

By setting up a treatment plan specifically to treat their concerns with intervals of anything between two to four weeks. Ensuring the correct usage of homecare is also essential for best results.

Is black skin particularly prone to postinflammatory hyperpigmentation?

That is correct, because of the amount of melanin found in the darker skin photo types.

How do you treat clients who have hyperpigmentation so as to minimise it?

At my salon we specialise in skin resurfacing treatments, which results in treating the skin from the inside out and gradually reducing and inhibiting tyrosinase properties. Simply put, we work in assisting the skin to stop producing too much unwanted colour onto the skin, while not excluding treating the existing pigmentation.

Speaking generally, one needs to be very careful when treating hyperpigmentation for darker skin tones. My first piece advice for consumers is to get an accredited or recommended salon and qualified skincare therapist to treat your skin and not just trust ‘anyone’ to treat your pigmentation for you. Ask for their before & after case studies and find out if they have a reputable skincare brand to recommend for safe usage at home.

What about peels – can one safely perform superficial and medium depth peels on black clients without causing damage to the skin?

We offer a medical grade peel for those clients who would like to see rapid results with minimal downtime. However, to be effective, clients will need to be consistent for a minimum of three peel sessions and up to six treatments in total. Or, clients can opt for a once off treatment with a seven day downtime period.

“ For those WITH DARKER SKINS who DON’T THINK they GET BURNT being IN THE SUN, I usually suggest that they LOOK IN THE MIRROR when undressed and IDENTIFY IF THEIR SKIN COLOUR is even all over. ”

What sort of ingredients should one avoid when treating black skin and what negative effect do these ingredients have?

I strongly believe that topical ingredients like hydroquinone should not be applied onto the skin. Another important point that people tend to forget about is the side-effects of most of the medications that they are taking. These may have an adverse effect on the skin and result in hyperpigmentation. Such medications include certain antibiotics, for example, tetracycline in conjunction with being exposed to the sun’s UV rays can be problematic for the skin. Hormone medication may also cause skin issues.

I’m sometimes asked if topical retinol is ok for our darker skins. My answer is that it’s fine as long as the retinol is encapsulated and not an over the counter product. Plus, retinol should only be used at night.

How does black skin differ from Caucasian skin in terms of melanin and collagen?

The only real point of difference is that people with darker photo types are born with more melanin, which acts as a natural protector for their skin, unlike the Caucasian skin types. Collagen is pretty much similar in both skin types, though a lot more compacted in men. What you apply topically and ingest internally as part of your nutrition and as supplementation will determine the quantity of your collagen, not necessarily the colour of your skin.

Do you offer laser treatments at your salon?

No, we don’t offer laser treatment at Gifted MO. In my opinion, some laser treatments are not always highly recommended for the darker photo types as the heat emitted from the device may cause damage, or induce pigmentation.

There seems to be a misconception in the market that black skin doesn’t require sunscreen. Please comment.

The importance of using sunscreen for ALL skin types cannot be stressed enough, more so for lighter photo types because of the lack of melanin in their skin. Darker skins also need to be protected as a good quality sunscreen not only protects your skin from burning, but also from the UVA rays which cause damage to your skin cells, resulting in premature ageing.

My advice to all of my clients is always to get the best sunscreen with broad spectrum protection, meaning it protects your skin against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays have a longer wavelength that penetrates deeper into the skin causing ageing, while UVB rays have a shorter wavelength that results in burning the skin. For those with darker skins who don’t think they get burnt being in the sun, I usually suggest that they look in the mirror when undressed and identify if their skin colour is even all over. They need to look at the areas of their body that are exposed to the sun and those areas which are not. Nine times out 10, their skin tone is very uneven, with usually the face and arms darker than the rest of their body. So the trunk of the body will appear to be a few shades lighter. It’s a classic sign that the exposed skin has been burnt.

Image from Shutterstock

Do you have any other tips for treating black skin?

What I would like to add is that clients need to be cognisant of the fact that taking care of their skin is a lifelong investment. Humans have a long life expectancy these days, so it’s important to commit to good skincare products to use daily on your skin. It’s not going to stay young and supple forever without any effort or commitment put into it. So, do take care of your skin daily. And, you can enhance it by committing to regular facial treatments to treat the skin’s hydration, fine lines, pigmentation, occasional breakouts, ageing and all other conditions and concerns that you may have.

I believe that taking care of your skin is not only a luxury but a necessity for a holistic approach in a well-rounded healthy lifestyle. You will reap the rewards in the coming decades once you realise that your consistency yielded compound results for your beautifully and healthy looking skin.

Mpho Nyelele is a qualified somatolgist who founded the Giftted MO salon in Dunkeld West, Johannesburg. In 2010 she was the recipient of Comfort Zone’s Best Therapist Award within the Carlton Hair Group.