Cool it DOWN

While we can’t deny the rise of the warm blonde in 2024, cool blonde shouldn’t be overlooked when it comes to creating on-trend blonde shades in the salon

ALFAPARF MILANO PROFESSIONAL

From trends such as the scandi hairline and pearl blonde, to chunky Y2K highlights and milky tea, cool blonde shades are still in demand. We spoke to the experts to find out how to deliver the best results for your clients, covering consultation, colour analysis, formulas and colour placement.

The Coolest Trends – And How to Achieve Them

A few years ago, ‘cool blonde’ was synonymous with grey and blue undertones – but things have changed a lot since then. “Cool blondes have become softer and brighter in recent times; gone are the days of high maintenance grey and silver bleach-ups that often become dull,” explains Aoife Murphy, ALFAPARF Milano Professional Colour Technician and Educator. “Now clients want to see illumination and sparkle in their cool blondes, which I adore. Baby blondes, iridescent violets, pale pink hues and cool beiges are now the norm.” Jo Robertson, ELEVEN Australia UK Education Director also agrees that there has been a clear shift when it comes to cool blonde colours, noting: “We’re now seeing requests for brighter, whiter tones – people want a colour that pops.” When it comes to specific trends, Lea Shaw, JOICO UK Blonde Ambassador, tells us that Chantilly Blonde has been one of her most requested shades of the year, especially after being spotted on celebrities like Sabrina Carpenter and Beyoncé. “It’s an ultra-dimensional, soft, pearly platinum, which is perfect for those who are wanting to keep their blonde bright,” she explains. Meanwhile, Holly Bullock, NXT Brand Ambassador, says that with the Y2K, early 2000’s styles making a resurgence, an increasing number of clients have been asking for the classic chunky, dimensional highlights. “Specifically, they’ve been requesting icy-white toned blondes with a darker lowlight.” Another similar trend that has been dominating is the scandi hairline, which Brooke Evans, Quif Ambassador and owner of BE Ironbridge, lists as one of her most frequent requests. She adds: “This is a great way to help a client achieve a desired colour without fully committing to a new look.” However, Holly acknowledges that this is likely to be a micro trend, adding: “I also have lots of clients still wanting a super bright blonde balayage, and I definitely don’t think this will go out of fashion any time soon.” Holly is not alone in noticing a surge of requests for icy blondes paired with darker highlights; Shu-Lan Cheung, UK and International Technical Educator with FFØR, also shares: “Recently the most popular shade has been an ashy blonde. This can be a blend of icy white highlights and darker blonde lowlights with muted silvery undertones. This gives a modern look that can suit various skin tones, so is very versatile.”

However, not all cool blondes have to be white and icy to stay on trend, according to Danilo Giangreco, Artistic Ambassador for UKI Revlon Professional. Blondes seem to be opting for more expensive cooler hues compared to previous years: “We’re seeing more Frosted Nudes, Soft Ashes, and Boujee Beiges making a comeback, all of which stand out from platinum white.”

SUBTLE VIOLET

BROOKE EVANS

1 PEARLY BLONDE

To achieve Aoife’s “illumination and sparkle”, she suggests…

The new .8 Pearl shade from ALFAPARF Milano Professional. “I’ve been mixing it with everything – it gives a beautiful, bright coolness everywhere it goes.”

2 BRIGHT WHITE

To master Jo’s “bright white tones that pop”, she recommends…

ELEVEN Australia’s Liquid Demi Permanent Colour. She says: “For bright blondes, the liquid colour allows the luminosity of the tone to shine through, unlike cream colours, which can often lack iridescence.”

3 CHANTILLY BLONDE

Lea shares her go-to formulation for Chantilly Blonde…

“JOICO’s new Blonde Life SilverLight Powder is a firm favourite of mine – it gives a much cooler result than a traditional lightener. I like to mix one scoop of Blonde Life SilverLight with 20 Volume Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer, applying evenly throughout the lengths of the hair. Then for the glossing formula, I use Blonde Life Demi Gloss 10T Titanium, mixed with 5 Volume Blonde Life Coconut Oil Developer to give the look an ice-cool glaze.”

4 BRIGHT BALAYAGE

For lots of lift, Holly suggests…

“NXT Blonde FX – it neutralises yellow and copper tones in the hair in as little as 10 seconds and works on levels 8 and above. When it comes to toners, my personal favourites from NXT are 10-11 ‘Ash’, 10-21 ‘Ice Irisee, and 8-12 ‘Steel’.”

BRIGHT WHITE

ELEVEN AUSTRALIA

CHANTILLY BLONDE

ASHY BLONDE

LEA SHAW

SHU-LAN CHEUNG

5 FROSTED NUDE

To nail the Frosted Nude trend, Danilo says…

“One of my favourite pairings would have to be MAGNET ULTIMATE 9 powder to achieve a clean and uniform lift, toned with COLOR EXCEL GLOSS 10.18 Frosted Nude Acidic Gloss Treatment. These are game changers as they not only give me beautiful results but also help to reverse the damage caused by colouring in just 10 minutes.”

6 ASHY BLONDE

Shu-Lan shares her secret to achieving the perfect ashy blonde…

“I use FFØR colour shade 6.13 or 7.13 for the lowlights or base colour intertwined with highlights using the FFØR High:Lift Lightening Powder with 3% developer. I would then tone with 10.12 to blend the look together. This gives me the perfect balance of adding the muted silver tone whilst also helping to neutralise any unwanted yellow tones.”

7 SUBTLE VIOLET

Brooke shares her favourite way to counteract yellow tones…

“I love using quif magi:colour in the shade 10:2 – it has a violet undertone which counteracts any warmth and leaves the hair a pretty, pearly blonde. If the hair still needs an extra boost, you can also use Quint:essential Toner in Dusky Violet.”

COOL AND COMPLEMENTARY

Many clients come into the salon with photos from social media that showcase the colour they want, but sometimes what these clients don’t realise is that the colour in question isn’t a good match for their skin tone. While hairdressers are well-versed in choosing the most complementary shades for their clients, how can this be communicated clearly during the consultation?

“Jewellery choice and clothing helps us identify which blonde tone would suit the client in the chair, and when you explain this to them, it’s easy for them to understand,” explains Hannah Crerar, owner of Rock N Rose, a Crazy Color ambassador salon. “For example, gold jewellery often suggests a warmer undertone which would call for a beautiful butterscotch blonde, whereas silver suggests a cooler undertone, which would lead you to a cooler blonde.” This isn’t always a hard and fast rule, however, with Shu-Lan noting: “That doesn’t mean that the individual cannot go for the opposite of their skin tone, as this, done correctly can really work as well – it all comes down to placement and colour choice.” It’s also worth noting that asking your clients to bring in inspiration photos can still be beneficial, with Holly adding: “I ask them to bring in as many photos as they can, including what they do and don’t like, to help determine what they’re really looking for.” By using multiple photos, it can help to ensure that it’s not just the person in the picture they’re looking at, but the shade itself. You can even turn the tables and show clients photos of your work. Georgie May, an independent stylist, explains: “I always like to show my clients different pictures of different tones of blondes to let them see the difference as well as how many different shades of blonde there are – they often don’t understand the full extent of possibilities.”

JORDANNA COBELLA

JON WILSDON

I ALWAYS LIKE TO SHOW MY CLIENTS DIFFERENT PICTURES OF DIFFERENT TONES OF BLONDES TO LET THEM SEE THE DIFFERENCE AS WELL AS HOW MANY DIFFERENT SHADES OF BLONDE THERE ARE – THEY OFTEN DON’T UNDERSTAND THE FULL EXTENT OF POSSIBILITIES.

At Ora Hair in Banstead, Surrey, once a stylist has captured a result the client loves, they use colour technology to ensure they can recreate it with accuracy every time. “When a favourite colour formula is identified, we mark it with a gold star on Vish”, says Lisa Phillips, owner of Ora Hair. “This makes it easy to access for future services and client consultations.”

Strong Blondes

When it comes to transformations, it’s not uncommon for clients to be cautious about compromising the health of their hair. As the professional, you can reassure them that there are steps to take to try and prevent damage. “Every colour or chemical service comes with a degree of risk, and I believe in outlining realistic expectations with your client,” says Victoria Panting, Paul Mitchell Educator. There have been a lot of developments that are now secondnature for many professionals to use, but it’s always worth informing your client of everything you’re using and highlighting the benefits. “I love Paul Mitchell’s Bond Rx – this is a vital step during the colour process and what I love about it is it’s preventative, meaning it’s designed to prevent damage occurring.” For Danilo, MAGNET TECHNICAL ADDITIVE from Revlon Professional is the perfect addition to a colour service: “This allows me to remove any metals in the hair while bond-building, meaning I get the ultimate lift.”

COLOURISTS SPEND ALL THEIR TIME CREATING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BLONDES FOR THEIR CLIENTS – BUT IF THEY AREN’T WILLING TO COMMIT TO THE AT-HOME AFTERCARE, THEIR BLONDE WILL NOT LAST

JOICO

And it’s not just during in-salon services that products are important – at-home aftercare is just as crucial. “Being blonde is a full-time commitment, so be sure to make clients aware of the maintenance required to go blonde. Colourists spend all their time creating the most beautiful blondes for their clients – but if they aren’t willing to commit to the at-home aftercare, their blonde will not last,” says Lea.

“We love recommending Crazy Color’s Bond Restore range alongside silver shades to make sure the hair is healthy, helping your clients maintain an even tone in between appointments,” shares Hannah.

Colour placement can also play a key role when thinking about the health of the hair, with Aoife explaining: “I like to lighten the most impactful areas and let the contrast show, rather than always using full head application. It can be lovely to see the natural dark hair against the lightened areas so the colour stands out.” Brooke follows a similar approach, explaining: “If a scalp bleach will be too compromising, I’ll suggest a money piece or face frame – something softer that will still let them achieve the colour they want.”

Meanwhile, Holly shares her preferred approach to creating beautiful blonde shades, opting for the ‘low and slow’ approach when it comes to cool blonde colour work. “Super fine and well saturated sections using a low developer will achieve the best lift; I make sure to check each section regularly and wash out as soon as one particular section is developed.”

However, sometimes being a great professional means telling your client no. Victoria explains: “If my client is worried about damage even after we have run through all the steps (explaining how to minimise it and how to maintain the colour) then I would not be afraid to recommend an alternative service – possibly not as light, or less blonde.” However, with the endless possibilities cool blonde presents, finding the per fect service for each client has never been easier.