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Powerful peptides Skincare’s rising star ingredient

While skincare professionals have long known about the power of peptides to tackle almost any skin-related challenge, consumers are becoming increasingly better informed about their versatility.

The increase in interest in peptides provides a great opportunity for skincare therapists a to share what we know about these chains of amino acids with our clients and rethink our peptide-related treatment and product offerings.

Peptide power

Peptides are chains of amino acid molecules that are linked together. These chains range in length, and the different types are often named according to how many amino acids are in each. For example, tripeptides are chains of three amino acids, a pentapeptide is five, hexapeptide is six, and so on.

Peptides are shorter chains of amino acids than proteins, which is why peptides are sometimes called protein fragments.

Our bodies naturally produce peptides, but we can also create peptides for topical skincare, injectables and supplements that can help our bodies respond in a certain way.

“These small chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin, are essential in the structure and function of the skin,” says Uthumaan Moola, founder of South African skincare company Skintist.

“With ageing, however, the natural production of these proteins decreases, which results in the development of wrinkles, sagging, and loss of the skin’s elasticity.

“That’s where peptides come in, delivering active benefits that help rejuvenate and restore skin. Peptides address ageing concerns in skin care, further supporting overall skin health and making them one of the cornerstones in effective skincare regimens,” says Moola.

Says Dr Neal Kitchen, chief geneticist at skincare brand Hydropeptide: “These types of peptides can be sourced from botanical resources like soy and wheat and biotechnology processes, such as, yeast fermentation. They can also be sourced through recombinant technology that allows us to create a specific peptide sequence that can carry out a specific activity in the skin.”

The biggest benefit of peptides is their ability to instruct the skin to make more collagen. For instance, matrixyl is a well-known peptide that, through clinical validation, reduces wrinkles, improving the skin’s texture. By stimulating natural skin repair processes, peptides help in rebuilding and strengthening the dermal matrix, giving a firmer and plumper complexion.

Peptides have a range of functions

“They are quite versatile in how they work,” explains Dr Kitchen. “Their primary role is to act as a signal to communicate a specific action or activity in our cells. For example, one peptide might help trigger the production of the collagen protein, whereas a different peptide might block or reduce the activity of an enzyme.

“Since our bodies naturally use peptides in many processes, it means there are many unique activities peptides can carry out inside the body. Some peptides act as antioxidants, while others can improve the activity of antioxidant enzymes or help facilitate the efficacy of vitamin antioxidants like vitamin C. This versatility is one of the key reasons for using peptides in topical formulations.”

Moola says these innovative combinations are driving a new wave of advanced skincare products that deliver comprehensive benefits. “There is a growing trend toward combining peptides with other active ingredients to amplify their efficacy. For example, pairing peptides with hyaluronic acid enhances hydration, allowing the peptides to penetrate deeper into the skin. Similarly, formulations that include antioxidants like vitamin C work synergistically with peptides to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging.”

Victoria Evans, UK education manager at Dermalogica, adds: “When applied topically in skincare, peptides can trigger skin cells to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin. With ingredient development over recent years, there are now multiple peptides that can support skin in various ways such as calming, hydrating and brightening.”

While it can be helpful to categorise the general function of each peptide, Dr Kitchen says that it’s also important to note that each peptide is unique.

This versatility means that peptides can help with many skin concerns including rosacea, eczema, pigmentation, loss of elasticity, fine lines and dryness. They can also be formulated as a combination of multiple peptides for improved results.

Says Moola: “Unlike other active ingredients, which may be irritating, peptides are generally well-tolerated by all skin types, even sensitive skin, and therefore can be a versatile ingredient to cater to many consumers.”

How do you use peptides?

Peptides are also often formulated with other active ingredients to maximise benefits. Dr Kitchen says that “for effective results, products should be formulated with multiple ingredients and not rely on peptides alone. They can be formulated with vitamins A, C and E, plus hydrators and antioxidants to improve overall skin condition.”

Says Moola: “The future of peptides in skincare is growing, and newer research is looking into the use of bioengineered peptides that could be tailored to address specific skin concerns in ways never before considered. This will open exciting perspectives on personalised skin care, in which products would be tailored according to the needs and genetic makeup of a particular individual.

“When peptides come together with wearable technology and AI diagnostics, the result will be game-changing skincare with real-time insights and personalised solutions,” he says.

Being biomimetic molecules, peptides are modelled after molecules our body naturally produces. This means that our cells know exactly how to process them, so Dr Kitchen says that there is generally no risk of allergic reactions to peptides or contraindications to any health concerns.

However, as is the case whenever you start a client on a new treatment plan, it’s still good to exercise caution.

According to Louis Rinaldi, chief operating officer at ABG Lab (which produces proprietary peptides): “Tolerance is very much down to the individual’s own circumstances, which is why a thorough consultation with the client should be undertaken to establish any additional concerns. Patch tests are also recommended for topical treatments and could identify any potential problems prior to a client starting a new regimen.”

Due to their versatility, peptides can be found in a whole host of products, from hair growth serums to moisturisers. It is important to note, though, that the peptide needs to be used at its clinically tested level to ensure maximum benefit – therefore, peptide-based formulations are typically at the higher range of purchase price.

Dr Kitchen warns to be “wary of products that claim to have lots of peptides but are priced too low. This is a good indication that the peptides are not being formulated at the clinical level.”

Make the most of it!

Business owners can make the most of consumers’ increased interest in peptides through a variety of in-salon treatments as well home care products. Peptides pair well with treatments such as mesotherapy, LED therapy and other device-based treatments, which provides a variety of opportunities to include peptides.

There are several things beauty businesses can do to capitalise on the uptick in demand to boost their profits. “Patient education is key and it’s important to use all available communication channels to emphasise the benefits of peptide treatments so that patients understand their individual and unique benefits,” says Rinaldi.

When it comes to marketing techniques, Evans advises creating a hot-spot display of peptide products. “Always retail a homecare version of your professional peptide-containing formulas and educate clients on how daily use will maintain and boost the treatment results.

“You could create a ‘peptide bundle’ to purchase alongside your pro service to encourage upselling and run an offer that includes the pro treatment plus homecare bundle at a discount.”

It’s also important to ensure you’re investing in high-quality peptide products and treatments so that clients get the best possible results. “Beauty businesses should align themselves with the experts in the science of skin ageing and what the educated consumers are now demanding, which is a focus on skin health and improving how your skin functions at a cellular level,” says Dr Kitchen.

“Peptide technology is the number one tool we have for delivering an effective approach to long-term skin health and maintaining a healthy skin even as we age. No matter what a client’s primary and secondary skin concerns might be, there are peptides that can provide a solution.”

Says Moola: “Peptides are a mighty, multi-functional tool in the quest for healthy, young skin. The ability to address a wide gamut of concerns, from aging to inflammation, makes peptides a cornerstone of modern skincare science.

“I believe that further innovation in peptide research and formulation holds even greater potential for enabling individuals to effectively and confidently pursue their personal skincare goals.”

Peptide home care

Revolutionising skincare for youthful, radiant skin In the ever-evolving world of skincare, one ingredient stands out as a true game-changer and it is peptides, says Nicole Sherwin, founder of Eco Diva Natural Superfood Skincare. “As someone deeply invested in creating solutions that harness the power of nature and science, I am thrilled to share how Eco Diva Natural’s peptide-infused formulations are redefining skin health and beauty.”

Here are some of our standout Eco Diva Natural products featuring these revolutionary ingredients:

Superfood Face Serum: This is a powerhouse of hydration and repair. Enriched with bio-identical peptides derived from natural sources, this serum works to restore the skin’s natural glow while improving texture and tone. The lightweight, fast-absorbing formula penetrates deeply, making it ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Ultimate Face Cream: Designed to be the ultimate multitasker, this cream combines peptides with a blend of African superfoods like baobab and marula oil. Together, these ingredients work synergistically to boost collagen production, enhance elasticity, and provide intense hydration. The result? Skin feels plumper, firmer, and more resilient.

Hydrating Masque: This luxurious masque is a weekly treat for the skin, delivering a concentrated dose of peptides alongside nourishing botanicals. It’s perfect for repairing damage caused by environmental stressors, leaving the skin soft, supple, and radiant. It’s also a radically effective pimple buster when dabbed onto skin before bed and rinsed off in the morning.

AVRA Wellness

Bringing you ‘Botox in a bottle’ Argireline, a synthetic peptide, stands out for its remarkable anti-ageing properties. Commonly referred to as ‘Botox in a bottle’, this powerhouse ingredient has become a staple in luxury skincare formulations including AVRA Night Cream.

Argireline’s efficacy is showcased beautifully in AVRA Night Cream, a cutting-edge product designed to target wrinkles, fine lines, and other signs of ageing with precision. Among peptides, Argireline (also known as acetyl hexapeptide-8) has earned a reputation as one of the most effective ingredients for anti-ageing.

Argireline works by targeting neurotransmitters called catecholamines, which are responsible for muscle contractions. By inhibiting the release of these neurotransmitters, Argireline reduces the micro-movements that lead to dynamic wrinkles—those caused by repetitive facial expressions like smiling or frowning. This mechanism mimics the effects of Botox but without the need for invasive procedures.

The benefits of Argireline include a reduction in wrinkles, softening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes and forehead; the stimulation of collagen, encouraging collagen production, vital for skin elasticity and firmness; as well as a more even skin tone, smoothing uneven texture for a radiant complexion.

AVRA Night Cream is a luxurious anti-ageing emulsion that leverages Argireline’s unique properties to deliver visible results. Designed for use on the entire face or targeted areas, this formula works while you rest, allowing your skin to rejuvenate overnight.

With continuous use, AVRA Night Cream offers noticeable improvements in skin texture and tone. Around the five-to-eight-week mark, the muscle-relaxing effects of Argireline become evident, with fine lines and wrinkles visibly diminished.

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DermaFix

Revolutionising skincare for youthful, radiant skin Peptides are essential ingredients in modern skincare, playing a vital role in promoting collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and enhancing repair processes. This is why DermaFix has included peptides in a range of products.

Peptides are small chains of amino acids that act as messengers to stimulate fibroblasts, which are responsible for producing collagen and elastin. As a result, peptides help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while boosting skin hydration and reinforcing the skin barrier to prevent water loss.

DermaFix products that feature peptide technology include:

Pumpkin Peptide Masque: This antioxidant-rich, thermoheating masque exfoliates redundant skin cells, re-texturizing the skin and promoting cellular renewal.

Collagen Conformer: Specially formulated to target lines and wrinkles, this product offers a flash lifting effect around delicate areas like the eyes, neck, and décolleté.

DeCeLerate: Featuring three key peptides, this product stimulates fibroblasts to synthesise collagen and elastin, reducing the depth of fine lines and wrinkles, while promoting cell activity, wound repair, and tissue remodeling for a youthful skin appearance. The inclusion of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8also helps relax muscle contractions, delivering immediate results.

Peptides provide targeted, scientifically backed benefits, making them an indispensable part of an effective skincare regiment.

Unlocking skin rejuvenation with nature’s finest ingredients

One of the most talked-about advancements in skincare today is the power of peptides and a Simple Skin, we take this science to heart and combine it with the nurturing power of plant-based ingredients to maximise the benefits for your skin. These include:

Jojoba oil: a standout ingredient in our formulations, is celebrated for its unique compatibility with the skin. It contains natural peptides that encourage skin repair while providing deep hydration. Jojoba doesn’t clog pores and is suitable for all skin types, making it a perfect base for achieving balanced, healthy skin. It works in harmony with your skin’s natural oils, enhancing elasticity and leaving you with a radiant glow.

Rosehip oil: Known for its rich content of vitamins, essential fatty acids, and natural peptides, rosehip oil is a powerhouse for rejuvenating the skin. It helps improve texture, reduce the appearance of scars and fine lines, and restore moisture levels. Thanks to its antioxidant properties, rosehip oil also protects against environmental stressors, leaving your skin feeling nourished and revitalized.

At Simple Skin, we combine the science of peptides with the natural efficacy of jojoba and rosehip oils to deliver gentle yet effective skincare solutions. Our products are vegan, eco-friendly, and budget-conscious, ensuring that everyone can experience the rejuvenating benefits of these transformative ingredients.

Join us in celebrating the power of peptides as we continue to embrace a simpler, more sustainable approach to skincare. After all, nature provides us with all we need to look and feel our best— our job is simply to harness its potential.

Cutting-edge biomimetic peptides

Not all peptides are the same, and our SIX skincare formulas feature next-generation bioactive peptides that deliver targeted, scientifically proven results. They incorporate signal peptides, which stimulate collagen and elastin production, ensuring firmer, plumper skin, and carrier peptides that enhance the delivery of essential minerals for optimal skin repair.

The formulas also include neuropeptides, which help relax expression lines and visibly smooth wrinkles, and enzyme-inhibiting peptides that slow down collagen breakdown, extending skin’s youthful appearance.

The result? Faster, more noticeable improvements in skin texture, hydration, and resilience. Harnessing the power of advanced peptides and potent botanicals, the Tightening & Fine Lines Booster is a targeted solution for smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin. At the heart of this formula is Tripeptide, a collagen-boosting powerhouse that helps improve skin elasticity and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Algae extract and pullulan deliver intense hydration, antioxidant protection, and a skin-tightening effect, instantly enhancing texture and radiance.

Centella asiatica leaf works to soothe and revitalise, stimulating cell renewal while increasing circulation for a healthy glow. Meanwhile, sodium hyaluronate replenishes moisture deep within the skin, plumping and smoothing for a visibly refreshed complexion.

Designed specifically for men’s skin, our Men’s Firming Eye Gel is a powerful blend of collagen-boosting peptides and skin-revitalizing extracts that combat signs of fatigue, puffiness, and fine lines.

Algae extracts provide deep cleansing and anti-inflammatory benefits, helping to refresh and soothe the delicate eye area. A potent peptide complex works to build collagen and elastin, promoting firmer, tighter skin for a more youthful look.

To enhance hydration and resilience, rice protein soothes irritation while improving moisture retention, and soybean protein strengthens the skin by stimulating natural collagen production.

Lightweight and fast-absorbing, this gel is the ultimate solution for men seeking a refreshed, energised, and firmer eye contour.

Revitalize and strengthen the delicate eye area with our Tripeptide Firming Eye Gel, a powerful formula designed to combat fine lines, puffiness, and loss of elasticity. A potent blend of peptides, including tripeptide, works to boost collagen and elastin production, visibly firming and tightening the skin for a more youthful, lifted appearance. It also contains rice protein and soybean protein. Fast-absorbing and non-greasy, this firming eye gel is the perfect addition to any skincare routine, delivering a refreshed and rejuvenated look.

Delivering advanced hydration and targeted anti-aging benefits, our Hydrating Eye & Lip Mask is formulated to smooth fine lines, plump the skin, and restore a youthful appearance to delicate areas. Powered by Matrixyl 3000, a potent peptide complex, this mask boosts collagen production, strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, and helps resist the effects of UV damage. Argireline works to relax facial tension, preventing the formation of fine lines and deep wrinkles. For an instant firming effect, Pepha-Tight, a blend of algae and polysaccharides, visibly tightens and improves skin texture. This powerful combination deeply hydrates and revitalises, leaving the eye and lip area looking refreshed, plump, and smooth.

This article appears in Jan/Feb 2025

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