ASK THE Experts

Our beauty industry experts answer questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business.

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Can I spray tan clients with psoriasis?

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the active ingredient within self-tanners and spray tan solutions, and this is the ingredient that reacts with the proteins on the surface of the skin to cause the browning effect. The only ingredient to avoid when tanning clients with psoriasis is alcohol, which is normally found in canned tanning products. This should only be avoided because it contributes to a drying effect on the skin, which can aggravate psoriasis. If clients are prone to psoriasis, then they should avoid tanning during a flare up because the product can aggravate and dry the skin cells when reacting to create the tan.

Some clients I have tanned have fed back to me that tanning products containing aloe vera can be quite soothing and have helped camouflage the condition, contributing to their own body positivity. If a spray tan has not agreed with the condition, clients could opt for trying a gentle gradual tan. If self-tanning is aggravating the skin, then clients should avoid DHA products and experiment with body make-up and wash away tans which can be washed away instantly.

Tanning therapists should always give their clients good preparation advice because good prep is essential for smooth and authentic tanning results. Clients who have psoriasis should exfoliate with a gentle product and concentrate on built-up, coarser skin. Then they need to keep the skin heavily hydrated up until the day of tan application.

Therapists need to get as much information about the client’s skin as possible during the consultation. Pay particular attention to applying an oil free barrier cream to affected areas of psoriasis. Try dabbing small flare ups using a cotton bud, and also ensure that you use a tanning solution that’s not too high in DHA so that it’s not too dehydrating.

Aftercare is the same as it is for all clients – rinse in warm showers and pat gently with a soft towel. They should moisturise generously with products that aren’t too rich or buttery. Working in a medicated talc around the chest and creases with a soft make-up brush around will help keep the tan intact and prevent it from flaking off prematurely.

James Harknett is a tanning expert with over 20 years’ experience working with celebrity clients and some of the world’s biggest brands. Harknett has a residency at Away Spa at W London and is a brand ambassador for Fake Bake.

Why should I offer facial massage as a treatment?

The ageing process is multifaceted, and while there are plenty of things you can do to slow down the effects, it’s important to remember that there’s no one magic method or product that does everything for our ageing faces.

I love a scientific ingredient and an amazing piece of machinery, but my clinical practice would not be what it is today without including face massage through my Rejuvology methods.

Let me be totally clear: face massage will not do what a skin peel can do, nor will it tighten a face like radiofrequency, reduce the appearance of wrinkles like needling, or get rid of thread veins and pigmentation like IPL and laser.

What face massage does do, is where some of the treatment magic really happens. Face massage is what can elevate a treatment to an experience that will keep your clients wanting more.

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Some of the benefits of face massage

• Stimulate blood flow – The physical method of massaging will have this effect. Where we have an increase in blood flow, there is a natural rejuvenation effect which can take place as blood flow is increased, fresh nutrients are delivered to cells and tissue health is improved.

• Increase lymphatic flow and drainage – Where the massage is more vigorous and deeper, there is a natural increase in the lymphatic flow as the tissue is manipulated and blood flow increased. For more specific lymphatic drainage, a much more subtle method such as manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) is required.

• Reduce puffiness – MLD is a medically recognised treatment for the movement of lymphatic fluid. Because the lymphatic system is part of the body’s waste disposal system, there is naturally a speed up in the removal of toxins.

• Oxygenation of cells – When the function of blood vessels is decreased, oxygen and nutrients cannot be delivered to every part of the body, causing cell functions to decrease. Physical massage stimulates blood flow, increasing cell oxygenation.

• Ease muscle tension – When the massage is deeper, we are working on muscles and fascia. We hold a lot of tension in our facial expressions, and massage is one of the most effective methods to ease this tension.

• Temporary lifting and reduced appearance of lines and wrinkles – Many clients have an immediate lifting of the facial contours and softening of expression lines, which can last days.

Then there are the not so visible but still hugely beneficial aspects of face massage, which include stress reduction, improved sleep, support in the treatment of depression and low mood, increased energy and boosted confidence. All of these aspects work as a stand-alone treatment as well as benefiting all the skincare and technology you might already be using in your business.

Abigail James is an award-winning aesthetician, skincare and wellbeing expert, author and trained yogi. James has been sharing her best face treatment methods with millions of people worldwide for over 20 years, both online and in person at her London clinic, and she also offers professional training for her Rejuvology facial massage methods.