Aesthetician Karen Ellithorne looks at a trending treatment that combines micro-needling with RF simultaneously

The conceptual framework for this latest beauty trend has been around for nearly five decades, but only in the last few years have the micro-needling and RF (radiofrequency) technologies been combined to deliver anti-ageing results.

RF micro-needling is an in-clinic treatment offered by a trained aesthetician or medical aesthetic doctor. It combines the principles of micro-needing, which rejuvenates the epidermis by stimulating collagen induction, with the addition of RF waves to firm and tighten the epidermis simultaneously.

This treatment is a form of controlled skin injury. The damage stimulates collagen production, which is well known to benefit common skin issues like acne scars and wrinkles.

Simply put, RF micro-needling is an aesthetic treatment that tightens your skin while also reducing your wrinkles at the same time, much like laser treatments. However, it has only minimal downtime whereas laser treatments can require around four days of recovery time.

Consequently, RF micro-needling is a great option in our South African aesthetics sector for rejuvenation as the downtime is minimal.

How it works

Micro-needling creates micro channels in the skin that trigger a complex wound healing cascade which stimulates the induction of collage and elastin. This is done through the use of multiple, sterile, fine stainless steel or gold needles passed over the skin’s surface at varying, customisable depths dependant on the area of the face or body being treated. The needles release RF current into the channels, causing additional heat for a tightening, firming effect. This enhances the effects of a standard micro-needling treatment.

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"THIS TREATMENT is a form of CONTROLLED SKIN INJURY. The damage STIMULATES COLLAGEN PRODUCTION, which is well known to BENEFIT COMMON SKIN ISSUES like acne scars and wrinkles."

Ultimately, the result of this treatment is to thicken the epidermis and make it healthier and smoother. Therefore, the treatment can be used to treat a large variety of indications such as the following.

• Fine lines

• Wrinkles

• Stretch marks

• Appearance of large pores

• Acne scars

• Scars from injury or surgery

the top most layer of the skin.

Other popular ingredients that may assist with hyperpigmentation are idebenone, taurine, niacinamide and vitamin C, to name just a few.

For hair loss and alopecia, look out for copper, biotin and other vitamin B complexes and for scarring, you cannot go wrong with organic silicone and centella asiatica.

PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) is also a great option for RF micro-needling. During the procedure, the aesthetic doctor or nurse will draw blood from the patient’s arm and use a machine to separate the platelets. After the RF micro-needling session, the doctor injects or applies the platelets to the treated area. This maximises the results of the treatment.

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• Hyperpigmentation

• Loose, sagging skin

• Cellulite

• Hyperhidrosis

Active enhancement

RF micro-needling can offer similar clinical results to that of mesotherapy and laser treatments. The beauty of this treatment is its ability to increase the transdermal penetration of active substances, ensuring maximum penetration of ingredients without excessive trauma to the skin.

When selecting specific active substances for the treatment, it is important to ensure that they are sterile and indicated for transcutaneous use.

Hyaluronic acid is a well-known favourite for needling as it offers intense hydration. Additionally, it works really well with fibroblast stimulation and also acts a great glide for the treatment.

If you are wanting to target general anti-ageing, then ingredients like organic silicone and proteoglycans are great options.

Then of course there is always the celebrated active, retinol, which is brilliant for photo-ageing and wrinkles.

When you are specifically wanting to treat loss of skin tone and flaccid skin, DMAE is a great ingredient and its actions combine really well with the RF functionality of the micro-needling device.

Peptides are also a good option to keep the skin firm and tight, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and boosting overall texture and tone.

EGF (Epidermal Growth Factors) have been used for decades in medicine to speed up wound recovery and they also have multiple healing benefits for skin, so therefore a great addition to any skin needling treatment. They are known to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve hydration and prevent hyperpigmentation.

If hyperpigmentation is your client’s skin concern, look out for anti-oxidant ingredients like the new kid on the block, tranexamic acid, which inhibits the synthesis of melanin and the transfer of pigment to

"Some MILD SIDE-EFFECTS are to BE EXPECTED. Many clients may experience SLIGHT DISCOMFORT, however THE TREATMENT as a whole IS TOLER ABLE. REDNESS AND SWELLING around the treated site is not unexpected, but should only BE MILD AND DISSIPATE AFTER a couple of hours."

Cautions

While an RF micro-needling treatment is considered safe, it isn’t appropriate for all clients. The list of contraindications is the same as for most wounding treatments, however it is important to note that clients on anti-coagulants and clients who have a history of keloids or hypertrophic scarring, or just poor healing in general, are not good candidates.

Although the RF micro-needling procedure is extremely safe, some mild side-effects are to be expected. Many clients may experience slight discomfort, however the treatment as a whole is tolerable. Redness and swelling around the treated site is not unexpected, but should only be mild and dissipate after a couple of hours.

The innovative technology of RF micro-needling treatments could be what you need for your clinic if you are looking at alternative treatments to improve clients’ scars, or soften fine lines and wrinkles.

Your client’s skin will look tighter and plumper almost immediately following this treatment.

A qualified aesthetician, Karen Ellithorne has been actively involved in the skincare industry since 1992, working as a lecturer and therapist, as well as successfully importing and distributing various products throughout South Africa. Email karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za