NailFile catches up with UK-based nail artist and educator, Fee Wallace, to get an international perspective on the industry.

You began your career in nails in Glasgow, Scotland back in 1998, when you and your mother opened your first salon. How has the industry changed since then?

Back then the industry was obviously very different to what we have today, but it was a great time to get started as the industry was just beginning to boom. I would say the biggest difference is how usual it is for people today to have their nails done professionally. When I first started in the salon at age 16, it was only a certain kind of person who would come and pay to get their nails done in the salon. Over the years, having your nails done has become normalised. So, while the biggest challenge used to be simply getting people to come through the door, now the focus is to keep them coming back to you regularly.

The other huge change is in the variety of services nail salons can offer. When I started out it was pink & white, French manicure style acrylic nail enhancements, or it was regular, air drying traditional polish. There was nothing in between. Now we truly have something that’s perfect for everyone who comes through the door.

Nail art has gone from strength to strength in South Africa – how big is it in Scotland?

I am amazed and delighted to see nail art become more and more popular all the time. Social media has played a huge role in this. Back when I worked full time in the salon, there were very few nail professionals offering nail art. I had clients come to me from miles around because I could give them something they could not get anywhere else. Now, nail art is popular enough that artists can specialise in their own particular style, and have a full appointment book of clients.

Is there a particular style or technique of nail art that you particularly enjoy doing?

I don’t think I have ever settled on one particular art style. Rather, I go through phases with particular looks, but it always changes when something new comes along. If there is one key thread running through my work, it is that it’s simple to re-create without too many steps. I love to produce nail looks that appear incredibly complicated, but are quick and easy to produce. That’s always the aim of the game for me.

What nail art technique do you personally find the most challenging to do?

There are many styles of nail art that most techs don’t consider commercially viable due to the time required to execute the designs. Techniques such as hand painting character art can look absolutely incredible, but it’s not for everyone. If a nail pro specialises in this kind of work, they will attract clients who want it, no matter how long it takes to do. For me, I’ve always chosen to focus my abilities on techniques that are quick to execute, so the pool of potential clients is larger.

What are the current hot trends in nail art in the UK?

We are still riding the wave of ‘glazed donut’ nails. This has been one of the biggest yet simplest nail trends that we have seen in a while.

The optical illusion ombre has also become popular again in recent months. I am excited to see what the big Christmas trends for nail art will be this year.

Where do you see nail art going in the future?

The 3D work we are seeing from dynamic, design focused nail artists is extremely interesting to me. 3D nail art used to be little flowers and bows in powdery pink shades, but now we can observe that strong colours and different levels of opacity are being used to create new and unique effects. My basic tip for creating nail art is to choose a gel polish system that allows for easy application of design elements.

" I AM AMAZED and delighted to see NAIL ART BECOME more and more POPULAR ALL THE TIME. SOCIAL MEDIA has played a HUGE ROLE IN THIS. Back when I WORKED FULL TIME in the salon, there were VERY FEW NAIL PROFESSIONALS offering nail art."

Do you have any tips on how to take good ‘nailfies’ (i.e. pics of clients’ nail sets for social media)?

I like to take my clients outside, or at least to the windowsill, to get as much natural light as possible for my nail pictures. Make sure you have used cuticle oil, but give it time to absorb, and wipe away excess before shooting your pics, so the skin looks hydrated and healthy, but not greasy and slippery. Don’t forget to clean your camera lens before every picture.

I believe that you no longer have your own nail salons?

Yes, I now work for Sweet Squared, the UK distributor for CND. My job as Sweet Squared CND Brand Master is to inspire, educate and influence nail professionals, empowering techs to get the most from our products and systems.

Technically, I have three jobs. I split my time between my primary role as CND Brand Master for Sweet Squared, and fit in specific projects for CND directly, around that work. I also work as a psychotherapist. I took some time out from the nail industry a few years back to study counselling, mindfulness and cognitive behavioural therapy. So I continue to work with clients as a psychotherapist alongside my other jobs.

" 3D NAIL ART used to be LITTLE FLOWERS AND BOWS in powdery PINK SHADES, but now we CAN OBSERVE that STRONG COLOURS and different LEVELS OF OPACITY are being used to CREATE NEW and UNIQUE EFFECTS."

What is your history with CND?

I was first appointed to Global Team CND in 2010, and served as an international educator for seven years, before taking a career break to study psychotherapy. Recently, I officially rejoined Team CND. This was announced to the global CND education family earlier this year and I am thrilled to be back!

My lifelong devotion to CND stems from the days when my mother went to a local salon to have her nails done every two weeks. Her nail tech was a CND Education Ambassador and so we began our nail education with this brand from day 1. Of course, I have used other products here and there at different stages of my career, but CND has remained the backbone and foundation to all my professional services.

Are you involved in creating nail art designs for the brand’s new collections?

Creating nail designs for CND is a wonderfully professional and rigorous experience. We are given a specific design brief, including mood boards and inspirational descriptive language. From there we can create designs that will go through a vetting process where changes and adaptations can be suggested. Gradually the concepts come together. It’s quite magical how it all works out.

Since the Covid-19 pandemic, have most of your CND education duties been online, or are you beginning to travel again?

We’ve observed that even though it is now much more possible to travel, because we have all become acquainted with and accustomed to online education, it is often what people still prefer. Sending someone halfway across the world to teach a class is very expensive, not to mention the carbon footprint. I used to travel constantly and it was a tough lifestyle. Things are more balanced for me now that online education is more usual.